A hidden gem: Fayyoum, Egypt's uncharted treasure

A picture taken on January 14, 2016 shows a marine organism at the Wadi el-Haitan Fossil and Climate Change Museum in Fayoum [Getty Images]
6 min read
27 September, 2021

OnUnited Nations' World Tourism Day, uncoversone of Egypt’s ‘hidden gems’ that hosts both rich, breath-taking nature reserves and spectacular archaeological sites dating back nearly 40 million years.

Located about 100 kilometres southwest of Cairo, Fayyoum's city site and the surroundingprovinceare hosts to some of thecountry’s most spectacular and picturesque sites.

Visiting Fayyoum is best enjoyed throughout theautumn and winter months, where a calming breeze willrejuvenatethepassing traveller.

Home to approximately 15 hotels, Fayyoum does operate largely as a local tourist destination. However, most of the inns/guest houses tend to be on the side of modesty, with a few boutique spots available for those inclined towards luxury. Despite this, the views overlookingmore than makeup for the lack of excess amenities.

"Why weren't greater resources afforded to Fayyoum to increaseits visibilitywithin Egypt's tourism industry?"

A tribute to ‘Om Angelo’

Perhaps the first stop in a visit to Fayyoum is, 55 kilometres east of the city centre, where a visitor can enjoy authentic Egyptian food, natural scenery and shop for its.

The story behind Tunis dates back almost four decadeswhen Swiss artist and pottervisited the village with her husband and children. She inevitably fellin love with the area, and would never leave again.

Porret decided tostay away from the luxurious life in her homeland and live in the village, teaching the villagers the art of pottery and founding a school and a workshop. Bit by bit, the impoverished village turned into a hub for the handmade, authentic art of pottery.

In keeping with the traditional Egyptiancustom in the countryside to name a woman after her elder son’s name, the villagers namedname Porret, who passed away in June this year, ‘Om Angelo’ (Angelo’s mother).

Handmade pottery store in Fayyoum's Tunis village
Handmade pottery in Fayyoum's Tunis village [Thaer Mansour]

Tunis village, which hosts roughly 2000 residents, is nowhome to a wealth of pottery stores and workshops, are accessible to the general public both to learn and to purchase.

However, "due to the COVID-19 pandemic, life is no longer the same at the village with fewer visitors and, accordingly, fewer buyers". As a consequence of the nation-wide crackdown due to the pandemic, "the festival for pottery and handmade crafts, that used to be held at the end of every year, has also been placed onhold,” said Mahmoud El-Sherif, secretary-general of the Tunis village potters’ society.

“At this time of the year, we would have been finalising the logistics of the festival,” he told .

El-Sherif, one of the early students of Porret, learned the craft at an early age until he independently set up his own workshop and store, located at the entrance of the village.

“We have been following Om Angelo’s footsteps and maintaining her legacy by teaching and supporting potters, solving problems facing them and developing the industry in the village,” he added.

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Just a few-minute-walk from the entrance of Tunis, the passing visitor can also find an adobe-styled clay building that hostscartoons that documentEgypt's social, political, and economic history throughout the 20thand 21stcenturies.

Founded in 2009 by renowned Egyptian sculptor and painter Mohamed Abla, theis the first of its kind in the Middle East and North Africa.

“I opened the museum in an area where people would come especially for it. I didn’t want to open it in Cairo as in the capital anyone passing by may think of checking out the place, regardless of whether s/he is interested or not,” Abla told .

Artist Mohamed Abla outside the Caricature Museum in Tunis village in Fayyoum
Revered Egyptian artist Mohamed Abla outside the Caricature Museum in Tunis Village, Fayyoum [Thaer Mansour]

The unique museum showcases about 500 original works by Egyptian cartoonists and other foreign and Arab ones, who lived in Egypt in this century and the previous ones, such asand late,,and. The museum also hosts rare covers of original magazines dating back to the past century.

“It is a hobby, a passion just like stamp collecting. I had been collecting original caricature drawings for over 20 years prior to opening the museum until I felt that I have gathered enough to open the place,” Abla recalled.

Abla never sought the Egyptian government’s support when he established his project.

“As long as I didn’t ask for funding, the government had no problem allowing me to open the place. Had I asked for funding, I would have been obliged to follow the mandated government line, I never wanted that to happen,” he explained.

Building of Caricature Museum in Egypt's Fayyoum
The Caricature Museum in Fayyoum [Thaer Mansour]

Ancient times hid amongmagisterialnature

When one visits Fayyoum, one of the first features one sees is the Waterfalls of ,commonly featured in classical Egyptian films.

Wadi El-Rayan is a small valley, 40kilometres southwest of the city, wheretwo man-made lakes, created by run-off water fromthe Fayyoum oasis, are joined by a channel of charming waterfalls.

Whilst the upper lake is densely vegetated, the lower lake is salty and its shores are poorly vegetated. The lakes are overwintering home towaterbirds migrating from southern to northern Egypt.

Wadi El-Rayan waterfalls in Fayyoum
The waterfalls of Wadi El-Rayan, Fayyoum [Thaer Mansour]

Visitors go there specially to enjoy the natural scenery, ride horses and sandboard. Unfortunately, the area is not maintained properly for tourists with no restaurants and sparse availability of cafes.

Conversely, the protected area of('The Valley of the Whales') in the Wadi El-Rayan desert isFayyoum's diamond jewel.

Situated in the northwest, around 70 kilometres from Tunis village, Wadi El-Hitan ismost famed for the fossil of a 37million-year-old suborder of whales, and a 24 million-year-old fossil of a crocodile permanently housed at the Fossils and Climate Change Museum.

37-million-year-old fossil of a whale in Egypt's Wadi El-Hitan in Fayyoum
The fossil of a 37 million-year-old whale in Wadi El-Hitan, Fayyoum [Thaer Mansour]

Expectedly on account of the discoveries, Wadi El-Hitan was by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 2005 as a World Heritage Site.

The site also conserves a huge spanof the desert, containinga variety of landscapes and formations. Rare forms of wildlife are also found in deserts along with fossils and remnants of past civilisations.

Just a few kilometres away, there is a spectacular lake surrounded by hills. It is called the "Magic Lake" after the effect that it leaves any who come across it. The lake changes its colour several times depending on the time of the day and the amount of sunlight it receives.

The Magic Lake, a vague, spectacular lake, called after the impact it leaves on whoever sees it
Wadi El-Hitan's "Magic Lake", so-called after the miraculous impact it has on passers-by [Thaer Mansour]

It's therefore clear thatthe whole region of Fayyoum is home to diverse touristicactivities. However, the area has been hampered by being under-resourced by government grants.The reason why such resources are not optimised by the state thus poses the question: why weren't greater resources afforded to Fayyoum to increase its visibility in Egypt's tourism industry?

“The state gives more attention to coastal cities and has thus not properly promotedtourism in Fayyoum. It was only after the January 25 Revolution where Tunis village received coverage thatFayyoum became known on the touristic map, thanks to the efforts of late Porret and the potters there,” said Hossam El-Sheimy, team leader of an online initiative named.

“All promotional initiatives are individual efforts carried out through visitors, local residents and journalists,” he told.

“The main problem with the government is bureaucracy. If we depend on official efforts, we won’t achieve much. Thanks to the foreign visitors, Tunis village and other parts of Fayyoum are beginningto become known abroad,” El-Sheimy concluded.

Thaer Mansour is a journalist based in Cairo, reporting for on politics, culture and social affairs from the Egyptian capital.